Quinta da Regaleira, Sintra — the upside-down 'initiation well' nobody will explain straight

Portugal time. Sintra, just outside Lisbon, the hills are stuffed with palaces and the fog rolls in thick — perfect for this. Quinta da Regaleira was built around 1900 by António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, this fabulously rich, fabulously obsessed guy nicknamed 'Monteiro dos Milhões.' He hired the s……