Poveglia again — my nonno rowed past it and wouldn't even look at the island

Everyone here knows Poveglia, the plague island in the Venice lagoon, so I'll skip the wiki stuff. What I want to add is family memory. My nonno fished those waters near Malamocco his whole life and he never, not once, dropped a net on the south side of that island. He'd cross himself and row wide. ……